Monthly Archives: June 2014

Seoraksan National Park - Panoramic View

Check: Sokcho & Seoraksan

In my travel plans for South Korea I included some modern cities, some history and some nature. Seoraksan National Park was part of the nature component of my travels through the country. The park offers plenty of hiking and hosts the third-highest mountain in the country (the peak of Daecheongbong stands at 1708 m), so I arrived with big plans of summiting that peak.

I stayed just outside the park entrance and in the early morning had a quick breakfast and ran to the gates. I paid my way inside and my first stop was at tourist information for a hiking map. The woman at the counter took out a map, used a marker to cross out 95% of the park’s area, and told me that those areas were closed. The remainder of the park would not open to tourists until the following month, with three places open for visiting, and none of those located more than 3.5 km from the entrance.

With some heavily curtailed plans I decided to start by visiting the top of Ulsan Bawi, a granite cliff that would provide some views down over the park, although at 873 m above sea level it was a fraction of what I had initially planned. There were a lot of domestic tourists, many kitted out with perfectly matched outfits, sturdy-looking shoes and boots, and many carrying hiking poles. There were also plenty of family groups seated at the many food options near the park entrance or shopping at the many souvenir stands. As I continued my climb I passed two locations with additional restaurants, and they were full sit-down restaurants rather than food stands. All of this was located along a hike of roughly 3 km.

Continue reading Check: Sokcho & Seoraksan

Check: Seoul & Surrounds

Walking around Seoul on my first evening I realised that apart from the distinctive Korean characters most of the streets could easily be slotted seamlessly into Tokyo in Japan. Slotted in between spotlessly clean, well-organised main thoroughfares were narrow and often-confusing alleyways. Restaurants were as often located on higher levels as at ground level, and it was nearly impossible to walk a block without locating a coffee shop.

I visited a number of the former royal palaces located through the city, learnt history and explored art in the city’s many free museums, tasted the incredibly-expensive coffee on offer, and sampled some of the delicious food on offer from both restaurants and street vendors.

Suwon, located 48 km outside Seoul, is surrounded by impressive fortifications, contains a reconstructed royal palace and hosts a folk village displaying reconstructed and relocated traditional buildings from across the country. I visited on a day trip from Seoul, catching a martial arts display at the palace, walking most of the 5.7 km long wall, and journeying to the folk village.

Continue reading Check: Seoul & Surrounds

Checklist: South Korea

From Turkey I was planning to finally start completing my trip around the world. I had bounced north and south between Europe and Africa a few times, ensuring anyone following me (either physically or via this blog) would be thoroughly lost or confused, but was otherwise travelling east around the globe.

I needed to decide a stopover point in central or eastern Asia on my way home. I had visited each of the south-east Asian countries that made the most logical stopover points so I started looking at options further to the north and west. In the end I found a well-priced option to fly into Seoul, in the north of South Korea and then to fly out of Busan, located to the country’s south. I would spend 16 days travelling through a country that I knew relatively little about beyond their booming tech and car companies.

South Korea - Itinerary
South Korea – Itinerary

After exploring Seoul and its surrounds I would travel east towards the coast, before making way south towards Busan. I would also make the return journey out to the volcanic island of Jeju from Busan.

Pigeon Valley - Header

Check: Cappadocia

Cappodocia offers a combination of interesting geological features with good hiking opportunities, with rock-hewn churches where Christians have lived since the 4th century.

Staying in the town of Göreme, my sister and I started our first morning in the region by heading to a tour operator to book a trip out to the Ihlara Valley for the following day. It turned out that they couldn’t guarantee they would head out the following day, but there was a tour that had just left. After calling the driver back we shortly found ourself with a fully-booked first day.

We headed out towards the valley, stopping at an underground caravanserai in Gaziemir and the remains of a church at the top of a high cliff above Güzelyurt. Then we continued to the valley and walked for 7 km alongside the Melendiz Stream, periodically climbing away from the stream to view four rock-hewn churches. On the way back we stopped to visit the monastery at Selime and to look out over scenic Pigeon Valley.

Ihlara Valley
Ihlara Valley

We started our second day by visiting the Göreme Open Air Museum, a sight including a number of rock-hewn churches just above the town. From there we set off on a hike through some of the surrounding valleys, to appreciate the unique geological structures up close. We stopped in the nearby town of Çavuşin for lunch before heading back towards Göreme having walked over 20 km for the day.

Continue reading Check: Cappadocia

Pamukkale - Roman Theatre Header

Check: Aegean Turkey

While staying at the running training camp in Iten, Kenya I met a fellow runner, Kevin, who hailed from Turkey. When I asked where in Turkey he was from, he looked at me and responded in a way that indicated that he possibly received the question a lot from people who could not name a Turkish city outside Istanbul. After he explained that he was from a city named Izmir on the Aegean coast I informed him that I had a visit to the city planned just over one month later.

After landing in Izmir in the late afternoon my sister and I met up with Kevin for dinner. While walking to dinner he pointed out his usual running spot so it was no huge surprise when we spotted him the following morning on a nice run through that very park. We then proceeded to walk around Izmir before catching a train to Selçuk.

That afternoon we visited the tourist sights around town since we would be heading out for day trips on the two following days. We walked alongside the Roman aqueduct and enjoyed wandering around the Basilica of St John, but unfortunately the apparently-impressive archaeological museum was closed for renovation.

Continue reading Check: Aegean Turkey